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Atlantic Spain


When most people think of Spain; Barcelona, Madrid and Saville spring to mind. Maybe even the Algarve. But very few people would talk of the Asturias or the Galatian regions, or those touched by the Golfe de Gascoyne (Bay of Biscay to the English) and the Atlantic Ocean. Yet this area is truly beautiful, culturally authentic and original and the people welcoming and incredibly proud of ‘their’ Spain.

Our first encounter with this side of Spain was Gijon (pronounced He-jon). After crossing the Golfe (or Bay), Gijon was a wonderful introduction and welcome to Spain. We provided entertainment for the Customs/Border Patrol crew who were refuelling on the dock as we came in and then spent our first 30 minutes using rudimentary Spanish on our part and English on theirs, to officially pass muster and check in. Took three of them to figure us out. But all was done with smiles, welcomes and handshakes.

I have spoken of Gijon and our other stops along the Asturias and Galatian coast so I won’t cover that ground again. I think I left you last time in A Coruna, along with Inelsamo. So, from A Coruna, we sailed ‘around the corner’ to the Ria Camarinas where we anchored

off a little village for two nights. The fog was incredible and eerie. Gives you a whole new appreciation for the sailors of old who navigated these waters without any modern technology. We could barely see the bow of Inelsamo at times. So we had AIS and Radar locked and loaded and slowly made our way, with eyes peeled looking into the mist. And then, as if a gift, on our morning of departure, it was crystal clear blue skies and we were able to enjoy the cruise out of the Ria and the spectacular coastline.

From there, we tracked the coastline down to the Ria Muros and took a berth in the quaint little marina right in the heart of the village, Muros. This is an old world. Stone buildings, cheek by jowl and cobblestone lanes and covered sandstone arcades. Another fishing hub so here we readily indulged in the fresh seafood, great wine and merriment of the children for whom these alleys and arcades are

their playground. A couple of days to wander, recharge batteries and fill water tanks, and we once again hoisted sails. For something different, we then anchored for a night just off a nudist beach! Not much to see really that I haven’t seen before and my wonderful sailing companion can in fact do the naked jig as good as anyone.

We were up at 5 am lifting anchor for a 12 hour sail down the Atlantic coast, crossing from Spain into Portugal. And that’s a story for another time.

So, what can I say about this side of Spain? Well the people have been nothing but friendly, eager to tell you about their home or where to get the best fish or freshest bread. Lots of smiles and advice. A pretty chilled and relaxed lot of folk. Not much English is spoken but that was okay with us as we have both enjoyed the learning experience and the laughter and giggles for those to whom we try to communicate. Our feeble attempts have provided much merriment and teaching opportunities. The food has been simple but always fresh, respecting the produce of the season. Absolutely love the Pulpo (octopus). A local favourite is Pulpo Feiro which is Octopus cut into chunks and cooked with paprika either grilled or boiled then olive oil over the top. Searing hot. Beautiful. The wines….well even table wines here are outstanding and one can walk away from an amazing meal without having broken the

bank. But what is nicest about the food culture is the timing and manner of sitting to eat. Breakfast is around 10am and usually consists of coffee and pastries. Snacking throughout the day, lunch is not really had until about 3pm of 4pm (at end of siesta) when you sit in the sun, enjoy a drink of some description and snack on light tapas style food such as cured meats, cheeses, olives, seasoned toasts etc. Then dinner is had late evening from about 830pm onwards and that could be anything from seafood, steaks etc etc. Way too late for my poor metabolism to cope with but the streets do come alive with entire family groups out for a stroll and dinner. I love that kids here sleep whenever and wherever and dine out with multiple generations late in the evening. No TV or being tucked up at 730pm for these kids…they are out with people and the entire village, come late hours. I think we are a bit obsessed with ‘school night’. These guys have produced great philosophers and scientists without our ‘English’ routines!

It’s a different life and world here. A slower pace, less technology or attached to tech, but more engaged in a sense of community and with people. I could get used to it.

Ah….yet another place I’d like to live one day.

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