The Rock of Gibraltar
After our travels over the last 12 months having taken us through Spain and Portugal, I am not sure what I expected to find Gibraltar like. It’s a strange place in some ways. Not British but very British, not Spanish but Spanish, not Moorish but there are influences of its old Moorish past everywhere. English, Spanish, Berber, Arabic, Hindi and Sindhi, as well as Maltese, are all widely spoken. But many locals also speak Llanito which is a vernacular unique to Gibraltar. It’s an odd mix of Andalusian Spanish, English and various of the languages mentioned previously. Pidgeon English, I guess! As Craig would say, a real Jambalaya of cultures, languages and religions.
This area was first settled by the Moors in the Middle Ages, was later ruled by Spain and was then ceded to Great Britain in 1713. The telltales of that history include fortifications from the 14th century Moorish
Castle high up on the Rock, the Great Siege Tunnels of the 18th century, and the remains of fortifications from World War II. It is clearly strategically important, overlooking the 13km stretch of water between Europe and the African continent. Half the world’s seaborne trade passes through this ‘choke point’ and consequently Gibraltar’s economy is very much dependent upon that stretch of water. Tourism, online gambling, financial services and cargo ship movements are the basis of the economy here. It is somewhat of a tax haven for international business and most goods come duty free.
This little part of Britain is only 6.7sqkm and is obviously dominated by the Rock which looms 426m straight up overhead. It’s home to about 30,000 Gibraltarians apparently making it one of the most densely populated territories in the world. Interesting side fact, there is zero, zilch, Nada, water! All the water on this little peninsula is produced by desalination plants.
It’s so densely populated that there is nowhere to grow except out and up and there are currently huge land reclamation works occurring on the waterfront next door to us. Obviously, everything goes up. Most people either live in high rise apartment complexes or old colonial era two and three storey townhouse style buildings dotted up along the mountainside. Down in the city area, there is one small little park with grass, but beyond that…the whole accessible place is all paved with cobblestones or concrete. And roads…did I mention roads? For such a small place, I am astounded by the number of cars, scooters and roads. Criminal really as it would lend itself well to small electric buses or cable cars and more pedestrian ways but that’s just me. It seems there is at least one car or scooter for each of the 30,000 residents in this 6sqkm space!
Of course, up on the Rock, there is a fabulous nature reserve with spectacular views all round as well as a resident population of Barbary macaques (monkeys). The reserve actually covers around 40% of the land
area of Gibraltar but of course you need to be a mountain goat to climb up there. Fortunately, there is a cable car that takes you to the top and if you are keen, you can come back down via the Med Steps.
So, what do I think of Gib? Don’t know really. I think it’s like any small country town/city, you need to live here for years to really get below the surface and feel like it's home. People are certainly friendly and welcoming. It’s an odd mix of cultures and religions. And while the demographic is mixed, it is also clearly a favourite retirement spot for many Brits so there is a predominantly aging population particularly around the waterfront. Equally however, it is a popular holiday spot for families and the odd bucks/hens groups! My first impression was that it seemed confused. Wants to be British but Spanish as well, and can’t quite decide and Brexit debate hasn't helped. There are Union Jacks all around, along with British Fish’n’Chip shops, many a grungy old British Pub, and the usual British chain shops like Topshop, Marks & Spence, and Morrisons. But there are also tapas bars and restaurants, old world style Spanish veggie shops/stands and the typical European fresh food markets. Which is better....can't say really. I think Gibraltar needs to just gets happy with itself, love its own unique skin and leave behind the shackles of old! There you go.
I have enjoyed my time here and my long and exhausting walks around the peninsula and up the enormous number of stairs here. I have also met some truly interesting people and the other boaties on my jetty who have made me feel welcome. And for that, I am once again grateful and humbled by.
But it is time to move on and get Inelsamo back out there with wind in her sails!!
