Baleares Islands and Spain
After a month in Gibraltar, the Chaotic Compass was keen to hit the road so to speak and get back out there exploring. So on a crystal clear and cool morning, we let the dock lines slip, said farewell to our jetty neighbours who had been so very welcoming and friendly, and headed out into the harbour and around the Rock.
The plan was to sail approximately 60nm from Gibraltar to Malaga, Spain. Being Australians and sailing an Australian flagged boat, we had to clear in with Customs and Immigration in Spain and Malaga is considered to be a major port of entry. However, once we got around the Rock and in to the Western Mediterranean Sea, we had fabulous winds and beautiful seas so we just kept on sailing!! Some 36 hours and 240nm later…we ended up in Cartagena!! Great decision really as Cartagena is a beautiful city, chock full of history. So we were certainly not lost for things to explore while waiting the two days for the Immigration guys to come back on duty…yep, you read right. They don't do small boats like ours on weekends…just cruise ships, of which there were plenty.
From Cartagena, we sailed along the Spanish coast to Alicante which is yet another fabulous city. We did heaps of walking here and climbed to the top of the castle and fortifications. Amazing views. These wonderful old cities are treasure troves of plazas, quaint little lanes, and amazing cuisine.
After Alicante, we had a night at anchor before doing the leap across the Baleares Sea to Ibiza. The forecast was for ‘strong winds’ and clear skies. As we always do, we check and recheck the weather before doing a long sail and we did so as per usual. And on the morning we were to sail across, the forecast still referred to strong winds of between 15knts and 28knts. Having sailed in that previously, we decided to go. Halfway across, we received a coastguard weather warning of potentially Force 7 winds. Our wind went from around 21knts to 28, sustained 35 for about an hour and the top gust we hit was 43knts. I will admit between utterly terrified. The whole 57nm was a white knuckled journey for me and I think I just about expired when we were hit by a wall of water which not only swamped us but we broached. Then Craig needed to go forward and try and retrieve a sail that got twisted and despite him being strapped on at two points, I think every nerve in my body was jangling and I was shaking like a leaf at the helm thinking through my ‘man overboard’ knowledge and skills. I came to the tragic conclusion, that in 40+ winds, and with massive waves, my darling boy might just have to cling for his life to the lifelines and be dragged for a while until I could make land fall.
Finally, after 7 hours of horror for me, we dropped anchor in a gorgeous, calm and well protected little cove on the southern end of Ibiza, called Es Bol Nou. We then received a ‘welcome’ radio call saying “Mooloolaba Yacht this is the Britt”. Turned out one of the crew on board was from Coolangatta! So with a walk along the cliffs, a beautiful seafood dinner on the beach and a soothing vino, the days’ experience paled into oblivion. I think Craig had a ball (apart for the broach). There were moments on the passage that he was grinning while I had to keep checking my own pulse!!!
Once in the Baleares Islands, we had zero wind!!! We spent the next few days popping between anchorages on Ibiza, Formentera and then over the Mallorca. The turquoise waters were absolutely divine, and the coves were lined with tiny little fishing villages or holidays resorts. But neither was a problem, particularly when you are anchored watching sunsets and pottering around the rocky cliff shores exploring caves and the mesmerising rock formations!! I love being at anchor. It’s my happy place and you often come across the same sailing vessels cove after cove. We befriended a couple for Sweden who shared half their huge fresh caught tuna with us, a young Perth girl and Auckland lad who are just about to launch off on their dream, and a couple from the US who are sailing around the world themselves.
One of the highlights of this trip though, has been reconnecting with an old school friend from Downlands who now calls Mallorca home. So after several days on anchor, we took the plunge into the massive world of yachting, boating and superyachts that is Palma, Mallorca. The harbour here can accommodate thousands of yachts and boats of all sizes and believe me, we have seen them. Coming in, we sailed past a 187ft sailing ketch!!! So it was a wee bit nerve wracking parking Inelsamo in there snuggly between a large cat and a motor boat, but Craig nailed it and she ‘fitted like a glove'.
I was overwhelmed by Palma. Its beautiful, historically loaded, buzzing with people from all over the world and home to incredibly welcoming and friendly folk. Catching up with Emma was wonderful and she took us to some fabulous little hidden away gems for lunch and coffee. I love this wonderful world of friends that we have established and appreciate every day how special it is to have such a diverse circle of friends around the world!!
From the hustle and bustle of Palma, to more gorgeous peaceful anchorages on Mallora before we made the leap back across the Baleares Sea to just north of Barcelona. Some wonderful time spent meandering through the Gothic Quarter, the Ramblas, and enjoying some tapas before hoisting sails once more for our final leg of this month's adventure. Our last stop, L'Escala, where we will say a brief farewell for a few weeks before starting another adventure!!
